(7 Rue de Commerce. Tel. ) This narrow, sparsely decorated restaurant of local fame offers a variety of no-frills fresh fish dishes, from swordfish to dorado, as well as Spanish tortillas.
Brahim Abdelmalik
(16 Calle Mejico. Tel. 03 993 1796) Join the locals at this popular lunch spot, with a wide choice of baguettes including tuna and kefta (spicy meat).
Cafe Hafa
(Marshan. Tel. ) This cliff-hanging beatnik café situated on terraces plunging to the sea, with unhindered view of Spain, offers a hearty bassara (bean soup) and eggs.
Dar Dada
(67 Boulevard Moulay Ben Abdellah. Tel. 039 370 012) The eggshell coloured walls and Arabic arches at this neighbourhood restaurant lend a cosy and intimate atmosphere to pizza and basic tagines.
Darna
(Behind the Tangier Cinematheque. Tel. 039 947 065) Run by the charitable organisation Darna, which helps homeless young women. Open from Monday to Saturday—don\'t miss the delicious coucous special on Fridays.
DARNA Maison Communautaire des Femmes
(Rue Jules Cot/Place du 9 Avril. Tel. 03 994 7065) The students at this non-profit catering school prepare a scrumptious home-style, fixed-menu lunch. Couscous on Fridays is not to be missed.
El Meson Pépé Ocaña
(7 Rue Jabha al Wataniya. Tel. ) This small bar might win the prize for best tapas for the price of a beer in Tangier—though women beware, you may be among an entirely male crowd.
La Grenouille
(3 Rue el Jabha el Ouatania. Tel. 039 936 242) This rather modest local's bar serves surprisingly good French and international recipes, such as the delicious ratatouille and freshly caught skate wings in black butter sauce.
Mnar Park Restaurant
(Sidi M’nar, Route Ksar Sghir 8km. Tel. 039 393 586) Connected to a water park, this large complex has panoramic views and serves up crêpes, paninis and fruit smoothies.
Quatre Saisons
(Rue Ibn Nosaid, across from Hotel Tanjah. Tel. 063 138 370) Baissara (split pea soup) is the speciality here—and the best in town. Made with plenty of garlic in a bubbling pot, it's a hearty warmer for damp days.