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WORDS BY CATHERINE RICHARDS
For sun, sand and solitude this summer put a little extra distance between you and the world, and escape to one of Europe’s idyllic islands
SKYROS, GREECE
On Skyros it’s just you, the sun and the Aegean Sea. No nightlife to speak of and no package tours: just white-washed houses, deserted beaches, perfumed pine forests and ancient olive groves. As neighbouring Skiathos and Skopelos absorb sun-seekers by the thousands, Skyros, the largest of the Sporades islands, remains tranquil—as much by design as by accident. Facilities are few, though if you want some company head to Skyros town and to sandy, busy Magazia beach. The fit are fortunate, for here you hike your way to happiness: the best beaches on the island are reached on foot. Though the 21 -century encroaches, traditions remain strong on Skyros, an island where serenity is found in simplicity. Ramble, relax and ruminate. Rupert Brooke, that most romantic of English poets, would no doubt approve: the island was his final resting place.
GETTING THERE
Fly to Athens or Thessaloníki, hire a car and drive to Kymi—around 160km. Ferries depart to Skyros once or twice daily from Kymi—book ahead with www.sne.gr. There are also summer services from Thessaloníki.
Tourist information:
www.skyrostravel.com
ISOLA DEL GIGLIO, ITALY
Giglio lies in the Tuscan archipelago, south of ever-popular Elba and mysterious Montecristo. A hiker’s heaven, much of this granite island is untamed: macchia mediterranea and mountains predominate. Don your walking boots and ascend 450 metres to the peak of Poggio della Pagana for views of the other Tyrrhenian islands— jewels from Venus’s tiara as legend has it. Do as the Romans do, and spend the day sunning on the island’s sandy beaches, or descend to rocky coves.
Giglio attracts divers by the dozens for its unique underwater world: reams of red coral, sponges, ancient shipwrecks and shoals of fish—including tuna and barracuda in deeper waters. The lucky few get to spot dolphins and whale calves. In spring and early summer the island is at its best, fragrant with wild honeysuckle, myrtle, rosemary and herbs. The Romans have been in on the secret for a few thousand years—for peace and space on the sand avoid Giglio in high summer.
GETTING THERE
Fly to Pisa or Rome and drive to Porto San Stefano on the Tuscan coast. Journey time is around two hours. Ferries leave regularly and the crossing takes about 60 minutes. Check www.toremar.it or www..maregiglio.it for booking information.
Tourist information:
www.giglioinfo.com
ILES D’HYÈRES, FRANCE
If you love the south of France but hate the hordes, head to the nature reserves of Porquerolles or Port-Cros, two of the three Golden Islands just off the French Riviera. Porquerolles has 300 residents and is a mere 7km long—rent a bike and peddle past vines and perfumed pines to silver-sanded beaches and rocky coves. Exercise and splendid sea views can be had by walking along the many trails to one of the island’s forts built by Cardinal Richelieu and Napoleon.
If it’s solitude you crave, head into the Valley of Loneliness. The less active can amble along paths scented with Mediterranean flora or lie in the sun, while a unique underwater trail will have snorkelers simmering with delight. Some may prefer to stay on Porquerolles: no cars, bicycles or fresh drinking water outside of the island’s only village Port-Cros will makes a Robinson Crusoe out of the most hardened urbanite.
Serene and unerringly romantic, it was on Port-Cros that DH Lawrence found inspiration for Lady Chatterley’s Lover.
GETTING THERE
Fly to Marseille and drive around 60 minutes to Port d’Hyères for direct services to Port-Cros or drive to La Tour Fondue for services to both Port Cros and Porquerolles with www.tlv-tvm.com
Tourist information:
www.ot-hyeres.com
PANAREA, AEOLIAN ISLES
The tiniest of the seven Aeolian Islands, volcanic Panarea is painted with a rich palette: black beaches, bleached white houses and a turquoise sea. Natural beauty is enhanced in the summer when Italy’s super-chic, with their super-yachts, descend on the island in search of la dolce vita. Things come in threes on Panarea: 3.3 km in size, three villages and 300 residents—a number that swells tenfold to 3,000 in high season. Rent a boat and explore the half-dozen islets that surround Panarea, or take a walk: hiking trails are clearly marked and well maintained. Ascend 450 metres through terraces of olive trees and ancient cornfields to the highest peak, Pizzo del Corvo, or search out the bronze age and Roman ruins—Panarea is rich in archaeological remains. The setting for a number of Italian films, the island is full of drama at night: visitors have front-row seats of neighbouring Stromboli spitting red-hot lava into the night sky.
GETTING THERE
Fly to Palermo. Ferry crossing takes five hours, change at Salina with www.usticalines.it or fly to Naples: ferry crossing takes 4 [2044] hours with www.snav.it
Tourist information:
www.panarea.com
VIS, CROTIA
Vis is one of Croatia’s best-kept secrets, a reminder of the Mediterranean as it once was. For decades its role as a naval base meant outsiders—and the modern world—were kept firmly out. Come here to swim in unpolluted waters rich in marine life or dive deep to spot sunken shipwrecks from centuries past. One of the greenest of the Dalmatian isles, Vis is unique in being almost entirely organic. Vineyards, olives, lavender, figs and lemons: the islanders are farmers and fishermen, renowned for centuries throughout the Adriatic. The town of Vis was the Ancient Greek city of Issa: founded in the 4 century BC it was the earliest urban metropolis in Dalmatia. With only a handful of hotels and private property available for rent, summer daytrippers head home on the last boat, leaving you to enjoy the sunset and another glass of the local vugava wine.
GETTING THERE
Fly to Split and take the two-hour ferry or shorter catamaran service across to Vis. Services run once or twice daily. Book through www.jadrolinija.hr or www.splittours.hr
Tourist information:
www.tz-vis.hr
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