THE NEW BIG Apfel
With an abundance of cool clubs, funky fashion, creative cuisine and hip hangouts, could Berlin be Europe’s answer to New York?

“Berlin – this is like New York was, and how New York should be,” sums up Richie Hawton, a former NYC DJ recently relocated to the German capital. Is Berlin the new New York?
Hundreds of international artists, producers, DJs, designers and writers seem to think so, as they flock to Berlin for a piece of the action.

But what makes Berlin such an exciting place to be? In a word: creativity. From the vast electronic music scene to dozens of budding micro-fashion labels to alternative film festivals, the new Berlin is being propelled by an improvised, arty approach to life. Most things (from rent to food to booze) are still laughably cheap compared with other European capitals, giving young creative types the time and freedom to experiment while enjoying a good standard of living.

Take Oliver. The Princeton-educated architect was fed up of the stress of his profession. A few years ago, he visited friends in Berlin and decided to stay. He now runs Dr. Pong, one of the city’s trendiest places to drink on the cheap till the early hours while – wait for it – playing table tennis. It’s what the new Berlin is all about – rough around the edges, a bit bizarre, but fun as hell.

One thing you’ll notice strolling around the streets is the lack of in-your-face commercialism that you see in other cities. Chain stores are few and far between. The best shopping is at tiny independent boutiques set up by fashion graduates, some inspired by London legend Vivienne Westwood, who now teaches at a Berlin fashion school (at Oderbergerstrasse in Prenzlauerberg and at Boxhagenerplatz in Friedrichshain). For an endless selection of cheap retro goodies from vinyl LPs to Russian telephones, head for a flea market (again check out Boxhagenerplatz on Saturdays). For organic grub, shop at the trendy street market on Kollwitzplatz in Prenzlauerberg on Thursdays and Saturdays.

“THE NEW BERLIN IS BEING PROPELLED BY
AN IMPROVISED, ARTY APPROACH TO LIFE.”

Berlin’s not traditionally a foodie city, but there’s plenty to pig out on other than the traditional pork knuckle and sauerkraut. Grab a currywürst or boulette (two local pork-based snacks) at Knopkes, a hugely popular eatery under the elevated metro tracks near the Eberswalderstrasse underground station in Prenzlauerberg. For a delicious fusion snack, such as nan pizza, go to Double U at Kastanienallee 49, Mitte. Or eat in pitch darkness at one of the city’s new “dark” restaurants, where blind waiters serve you: unsicht-Bar (Gormannstrasse 14, Mitte Tel. +49 (0)30 24 34 25 00), Nocti Vagus (Saarbrückerstrasse 36 – 38, Prenzlaurberg, Tel. +49 (0)30 74 74 9123).

Other fun places to eat at are the pay-what-you-want underground restaurants, where you can dine and drink all the wine you desire in cluttered, Bohemian surroundings for whatever you decide to pay. Not to say that Berlin can’t do haute cuisine. A spate of gourmet restaurants has opened up over the last few years. One of the best is Borchardt (Französischestrasse 47, Mitte, Tel. +49 (0)30 20 38 71 10), an elegant brasserie always brimming with local celebrities and politicians.

“IT’S BERLIN’S NIGHTCLUBS, HOWEVER,
THAT HAVE EARNED THE CITY ITS REPUTATION
AS EUROPE’S ANYTHING GOES CAPITAL.”

Sarcastic locals with their Schnauze (Berliners’ own brand of harsh wit) tend to comment on more or else everything with a snarl. After all, the economy is a shambles and unemployment stands at 18 per cent. And yet there’s a new sense of optimism in the air. It’s 15 years since the fall of the Berlin Wall, and everything is still in a state of flux. In the early 1990s, young people came to East Berlin from across Germany and Europe to squat in derelict buildings, and set up underground techno clubs and galleries. At the same time, a massive wave of real estate speculation led to a glut of construction as cranes filled the sky and shiny buildings sprouted up in the gaps still left over from the bombs of the Second World War. Despite the inevitable gentrification of the East, underground culture has managed to evolve, mature and flourish. Indeed, over the past few years, the city’s cultural scene seems to have gathered more and more momentum. Berlin’s reputation as the cutting-edge capital of Europe has reached every corner of the globe – spread by the likes of electro stars Gonzalez and Peaches, two Canadian musicians who both made it big in the Berlin underground before going on to conquer Paris, London and New York.

What about the sights? Berlin is no Paris or Rome where an architectural gem is lurking round every corner. Virtually every building is splattered with graffiti, and half of the city was levelled when the Russians rolled into town in 1945 to finish off Hitler’s regime. The result is a city with huge gaps in the urban fabric that were either filled with depressing prefab tower blocks, or are still empty wastelands today. The must-see sights are the Reichstag topped with British architect Norman Foster’s new glass dome, the Jewish Museum and the space-age East Berlin Television Tower at Alexanderplatz – the revolving Telecafé inside the Death Star-style sphere 200m above the ground is great for a coffee.

Not far from Alexanderplatz is the Scheunenviertel, an area of the Mitte that survived intact from the bombing raids and which is now the art and fashion centre of the city. Auguststrasse and Linienstrasse are two streets lined with galleries, including the famous gallery, KW (Kunst-Werke), an art space that sparked the Berlin art boom.

It’s Berlin’s nightclubs, however, that have earned the city its reputation as Europe’s anything- goes capital. Nothing really gets going till midnight, so have a late dinner and a cocktail before heading out. For a trendy-kitschy night out, try Big Eden (Kurfürstendamm 202, Charlottenburg, www.big-eden.de), a legendary West Berlin club whose heyday was in the 1980s, but recently relaunched to host the best local bands. For true decadence, head for the kinky Kit Kat Club (Bessemerstrasse 4, Schöneberg, www.kitkatclub.de), but be prepared for men and women performing naughty acts in full view. Dress code: sexy. Tuesday is gay night. The younger, well-dressed crowd head for Sage Club (Köpenickerstrasse 76, Mitte, www.sage-club.de) built in a former train station. One of the best regular nights at Sage is Blood, a fashionable freak show, hosted by former New York prostitute and general girl- about-town, Dahlia (www.blood.it).

For a less glamorous, but equally sweaty night out, head for Kaffee Burger (Torstrasse 60, Mitte, www.kaffeeburger.de), a tiny East Berlin venue, famous for its monthly Russian disco nights. The dancefloor is always filled till dawn at the weekend. To find out what’s going on, pick up a copy of Exberliner, the monthly English listings magazine (www.exberliner.com). A lot of underground parties, though, aren’t listed. They’re improvised in squats or cellars, and the news is spread by word of mouth. To find out more, strike up a conversation with a trendy-looking local. Don’t worry if your German is limited to a few phrases. Most young people will be happy to practice their English.

Still not convinced that Berlin is the new New York? In the Big Apple these days, you can’t even smoke in a bar. In Berlin, anything goes: smoke anywhere you want, drink beer at the cinema, and even barbecue on the pavement. And nobody even bats an eyelid if you strip down to your birthday suit at one of the many lakes in the city.

Long live free Berlin!

Text by René Blixer