(Port Saint-Laurent du Var. Tel. 04 9212 8812) The best hamburger joint in town—serving some of the biggest burgers you'll see outside America. Opt for a regular-sized portion or go up to as many layers as you want—the record is nine! The restaurant is small and very popular, so make sure you book ahead.

  (12 Avenue Saint-Louis, Cannes. Tel. 04 9338 6028) Locals like to keep this place a secret and after your meal, you'll know why. Hidden off the usual tourist track, but still in the centre of Cannes. The food, served by a congenial staff, is excellent—think fresh seafood, a great selection of cheeses and delicious desserts.

  (Place du Commandant Lamy, Mougins. Tel. 04 9390 0091) A delightful restaurant in an ancient oil mill in the heart of a charming village. Savour Brittany lobster salad with sweet-and-sour baby vegetables. You can even take cookery lessons and reproduce your favourite dish at your next dinner party.

  (Place du Panorama, Cabris. Tel. 04 9342 6389) Take the winding uphill road from Grasse to find yourself on a plateau. The restaurant has a spacious dining room as well as a huge terrace. It's always packed for Sunday lunch, so it's best to book.

  (2 Place Auguste-Amulf, Peillon. Tel. 04 9379 9117) For five generations, the Millo family have slaved over hot stoves to bring some of the best dishes around direct to your plate. Lucky for you and me, they're still serving their famous, authentic Provençal dishes.

  (Hotel Maeterlinck, Basse Corniche, Nice. Tel. 04 9200 7200) Italian gardens, lavender fields and a balcony terrace overlooking the Mediterranean all provide the prefect backdrop to the subtle cuisine. Aubergine confit with grated truffles, gilt head bream baked with fresh beans or a half rabbit with oregano and braised spleen.

  (25 bis Cours Masséna, Antibes. Tel. 04 9334 9300) The prohibition of l'absinthe, the drink that reputedly turned people mad, has been lifted and the 'poisonous' toxins left out. The French are a bit cagey about letting on that it's available—but at L'Absinthe Bar you can choose from 40 flavours, and if that isn't your cup of tea, settle for a nice glass of wine.

  (5 Rue Saint-Vincent, Nice. Tel. 04 9380 2733) A small, old-fashioned bar—legendary for its weekend live concerts—with music ranging from jazz to flamenco. It tends to be crowded but it's worth making the effort as the music is sensational.

  (11 Avenue Princess Grace, Monaco. Tel. ) If you are up for a night out on the town then put the Sass Café at the top of your list—especially if you want to look and feel like a jetsetter. Bump into the occasional shy and retiring celeb as you quaff your Champagne.

  (3 Rue Berillerie, Nice. Tel. 04 9392 9337) A lively nocturnal hang-out decorated in an English style, with bookcases and comfy armchairs. Things really get going when the DJ blares out the sounds of electro funk, hip-hop and soul music on Thursday night.

People travel from far and wide to Nice to purchase their olive oil because they say there is nothing that can compare. There are two notable shops to purchase the stuff: La Maison de L'Olive (18 Rue Pairoliére) and Alziari (18 Rue Pairoliére).

Forget the jet set image of St Tropez. By October, the village returns to what it always was and is when the rich go home to play—a small fishing port. Stroll through the narrow streets and stop for a pastis on the Old Port.

 – Barely an hour inland from the coast, when you hit Le Pays de Fayence, there is a radical change of scenery with forests and olive groves replacing the palm trees, and a host of charming perched villages—Bagnol-en-Forêt, Montauroux and Lac de Saint-Cassian and Callian, just to name a few.

In days gone by, Sir Thomas Coventry—an eccentric Englishman who lived in Nice and was a bit of a stickler for time—got permission to fire a cannonball at midday to call the city's population to lunch. The custom still exists to this day.