(244 Deansgate. Tel. 0161 839 8819) This casual cellar has the most authentic atmosphere in the north. Not easy to find, its racks chink with wines from Rias Baixas, and the gambas pilpil is worth the chase.

  (Unit 4 Smithfields, Northern Quarter . Tel. 0161 839 7195) Bluu is never short of custom thanks to its boudoir-style décor, low-slung lampshades and upbeat sounds. The cocktails are good and the British restaurant out the back doesn't disappoint.

  (14 John Dalton Street. Tel. 0161 839 1999) A favourite with local celebrities, the extensive wine and Champagne list, grilled meats and stylish surrounds (including a crystal staircase), ensure that first impressions last.

  (Floors 5-6, Urbis, Cathedral Gardens. Tel. 0161 605 8282) This recent addition to Urbis, Manchester’s crystal palace and museum of urban life, The Modern has taken over the top floors with aplomb. Regionally sourced fare is a speciality and the quince tart, a revelation.

  (39 Edge Street, Northern Quarter. Tel. 0161 832 9243) Plywood lined and covered in the musings of local artists, airs and graces are left firmly at the door of this café/bar serving up hot new DJs, snacks and European beers.

  (5 Newton Street, Piccadilly. Tel. 0161 237 9789) This grungy, cellar bar has profiled new bands to an appreciative audience for more than 20 years. The White Stripes and The Gossip cut their teeth here, and it's a local favourite.

  (1 Central Street. Tel. 0161 211 9000) Cool and classy, this spacious central bar is home to up-for-it punters and cocktail connoisseurs in equal measure. Friday’s house music-fuelled Romp is a vibrant occasion, as is the monthly Guilty Pleasures (just that).

Enjoy fine, fast food? Love Saves The Day, a café/food boutique with two outlets (Thomas Street and Deansgate) gives you the chance to buy unusual produce and enjoy the own-blend coffee and croissants (www.lovesavestheday.com).

Manchester’s blogs are a source of comment, criticism and occasionally, direction. The city it even has its own blog awards. Listing the region's finest, the blog of organiser The Manchizzle is a fine place to start (manchizzle.blogspot.com).

Long due an overhaul, Salford Quays has been transformed into a cultural quarter. Highlights include the Lowry, home to a collection of works by local namesake, and the Daniel Libeskind-designed Imperial War Museum North.

Manchester is showcasing new talent in the Asia Triennial 08. Must-sees include Jun Nguyen-Hatsushiba’s underwater films at Manchester Art Gallery, while Castlefield Gallery exhibits Channel-A’s take on the past (until 1 June. www.asiatriennialmanchester.com).

 – In the shadow of Rivington Pike—a beacon used to send warnings of danger in the 12th century—lies the crumbling Terraced Gardens of Rivington Manor. Once the home of William Lever, founder of the household brand, the ruins include a Japanese pool and ornate staircases. A fascinating day out, just half an hour from Manchester.

Manchester is not one city, but two, with the River Irwell marking the divide between Manchester and Salford. Each has its own city status, city council—and city-sized pride.